September 2001

Paul Bocuse.  One of the greatest and most venerated names in the world of gastronomy.  He maintains a team of award winning chefs at his three star restaurant at Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, part of Lyon.
A safe bet for a memorable birthday lunch, you would think.

The premises are a riot of colour and bad taste.  The doorman did his job perfectly, although dressed in a uniform more suited to a chimpanzee.  The silverware was from a farmhouse and the crockery from a nursery.  We had the small menu of soup des moules and fish en croûte.  It was perfectly executed and served, but totally lacking in balance and indeed vegetables.
Although our first course was a workman's portion of mussel soup, the amuse-bouche was pumpkin soup (it was under seasoned, but was good when salt was added).

The main course was loup baked in a good puff pastry.  It was expertly filleted and plated at the table.  The cavity had been filled with egg and this was served as well.  The sauce Choron was slathered over the top and the plate very nearly covered with a massive piece of the pastry.   No vegetables featured in what was so far a meal of fish, egg, butter and flour.

We made our selection of what looked like good cheese, but then left nearly all of it because it was stone cold.  They were keeping it in a fridge, which left it hard and completely lacking in taste and aroma.  It was in a condition that I would not have thought possible in France; it is most probably a crime.  The waiters were embarrassed and gave us free dessert wine.

The pre-dessert was a small, plain crème brûlée.  Then the equivalent of a sweet trolley, with very generous servings.

Here are the menus.  I did not ask for them and they are, fittingly, out of date.   The actual choice of starter for the small menu was foie gras of duck or salad of foie gras of duck (yep) or mussel soup.

I don't recommend the place and Michelin really should be clearing out some of these 3 star hangers on.  After this and our lesser disappointment at Georges Blanc, I am now very wary about visiting the long-established names.

So.  At F2000, a very expensive lunch, but very, very far from our best.

Best was Santi Santamaria at El Racó de Can Fabes, near Barcelona.

Second was Richard Coutanceau at La Rochelle, with two superb lunches.

Third was Simon Gueller, ex Rascasse, Leeds.

Fourth was Domaine d'Auriac, near Carcassonne.