May 2001

Nice weather, so summery food in the conservatory.

Found a jar of snails in garlic butter, from Burgundy, so fried some pancetta and warmed the snails through with basil.  Served on farfalle pasta with parmesan.  Bruschetta drizzled with some of the garlic butter.

The fishmonger had some blanched baby octopus and some thick slices of marlin.

First course.  A risotto of Carnarolli rice, spring onion and white wine.  The octopi just warmed through at the end.

Second course.  Asparagus grilled with olive oil and some grilled shiitaki mushrooms.   A tomato sauce with white wine and the grilled marlin.  This is an awkward fish to cook.  It could do with more cooking than tuna, but toughens up dreadfully if you go too far.  Swordfish is a better choice, but if you try marlin, keep it quite raw.

Bought some watercress and thought of a recipe.  Blanch it and blitz it with boiled celeriac, parsley and light chicken stock.  My stock was a bit dark, but it made a tasty velouté.  Bashed Jersey Royals, mint and garlic, with a spatchcock quail on top.  Remember to season all purée and velouté very well.

Sunday Roast.  Scottish beef quick roasted.  A stack of sauté sweet potato and sauté spinach.  An onion gravy with fresh oregano, sherry and grain mustard.  Sea salt plays a large part here; both beef and spinach requiring plenty of seasoning.

A salad of duck's gizzards (gesiers du canard), with pancetta, pinenuts, chives and the chive flowers.

Time to eat the last of the duck's gizzards.  Fried with onions, garlic, amontillado and just a little tomato.  Mixed with spaghetti and parmesan.  The garlic is new season's garlic from Italy, small and very fresh.

Here is a Brie doing what it does best.  It should not be kept in the fridge.